A slow travel guide to the hilltop towns of Southern Tuscany

Tucked away in the rolling hills of southern Tuscany, the Grosseto region in Italy feels like a well-kept secret. It’s a place where history lingers in every stone wall, thermal waters bubble in ancient springs and each street in the medieval hilltop towns look like their straight out of a storybook. You may be familiar with the more famous part of Tuscany, like Florence, Siena and the Val d’Orcia, if you wander south you’ll be rewarded with something quieter, more intimate and undeniably magical.

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The Grosseto region, anchored by the town of Manciano and surrounded by enchanting villages like Saturnia, Montemerano, Poggio Murella, Sovana, Sorano, and Pitigliano, invites you to slow down. Here, you’ll find time-worn Etruscan roads, sun-drenched piazzas, steaming natural hot springs and sweeping landscapes.

In this guide, we’ll explore the fascinating history of the area, wander through each unique town, and uncover the must-see spots (and hidden corners) that make this region one of Tuscany’s most captivating escapes.

Discovering the Hidden Gem of Southern Tuscany

I hesitate the use the phrase “hidden gem” as that phrase is subjective, but the Grosseto region truly feels underrated. In fact, it’s one of the least densely populated regions in Italy.

Grosseto is part of the Maremma countryside, known for its thick woods, coastline, agriculture, marshes and rugged hills. It was an important area for the Etruscans (the civilization here before the Romans), and is an underrated area of Italy.

Sitting about halfway between Rome and Florence, Grossetto is the southernmost province of the Tuscany region. While the region is quite large, this guide will focus on the area surrounding Manciano.

This area of Tuscany is known for its hilltop medieval towns, thermal springs and Etruscan roots. Because of how far removed it feels from the touristy places of Italy, the Grosseto region feels like the perfect place for slow travel.

How to get to and around Southern Tuscany

While train travel in Italy is amazing, there is a very limited network of trains in the Grosseto region. That means the best way to get around is by car.

You can grab the train from Rome to the town of Grossetto, then rent a car there, or rent a car in Rome and drive to the region. The main highway is a toll road, so make sure you’ve got cash on you while driving.

You’ll want a car to drive around the region. Fair warning, the roads are a bit wild. Coming from North America, many of the roads that are two lanes feel like they should be one lane, and then there’s also quite a bit of hairpin turns and steep hills as you wander through the very hilly area of Manciano.

Saturnia: Soaking in Ancient Waters

The main attraction of the Grosseto region in Southern Tuscany is the thermal waters of Saturnia. These thermal waters are said to come from a stray lightning bolt of the god Jupiter while fighting against Saturn.

The hilltop town of Saturnia is worth checking out too. While I didn’t get to spend much time here, it was my first impression of the area, and my first meal after landing in Italy. Safe to say, pasta and wine were on the menu, which was perfect.

In the town, you can visit surviving remnants of Roman buildings on the streets, grab gelato and enjoy a nice bite to eat. Nearby is the Terme di Saturnia, a resort built around the thermal waters. The waters naturally flow from the resort and down a stream, where they remain very hot and flow over this gorgeous

What you need to know about visiting the Cascate del Mulino di Saturnia

• While it’s free to visit the thermal spring, there is a fee for parking, which is located about 400m up the road.

• There is a changing room and restaurant nearby, which you can use for a fee.

• There’s a smell of rotten eggs in the air - that’s just the sulphur smell.

• The best time to come is bright and early in the morning or late in the evening. It can get very busy otherwise.

• The waters are a generous 38 degrees all year round

• Most shocking to me, there are tiny red worms in the water, but they're harmless to humans.

• It's very rocky under the water, so bring water shoes!

Montemerano: One of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages

The host at my Agriturismo (farm stay) said that we had to go visit Montemerano, since it was Italy’s most beautiful village. (I learned later that there are dozens of villages named this all over the country, but it is an official designation.)

But she wasn’t wrong. It was a stunningly cute town that we had almost all to ourselves. That was the bonus of being there in the shoulder season.

Montemarano is one of the best-preserved medieval villages in Maremma.

What to see in Montemarano

The best way to see the village is on foot, so park your car in one of the designated lots and grab your camera.

Head into the village via the Second Gate del Ponte, which is the beginning of the main street in Montemarano. Take a detour off the main street and up an unassuming cobblestone path to the Prima Cinta di Mura, the first wall/gate of the village. This would have been the only access to the original residential area of the town.

From there, you’ll enter Piazza del Castello, the largest piazza and definitely most photogenic. From here, you’ll be able to see the La Rocca, the fortress and follow along the narrow alleyways as you explore the heart of Montemarano.

Other places to check out here:

• Chiesa di San Giorgio, which has beautiful architecture and preserves art that dates back to the 1300s,

• La Buca, a narrow passageway between two streets

• Frantoio, the oil mills that date back to the 1800s

Poggio Murella: Hidden Hamlet Charm

Poggio Murella means Murella Hill in Italian. It’s a small and charming little village surrounded by gorgeous scenery. It’s not as popular as it’s off the main road and a bit of a journey to get here, but since my agriturismo was close by, I ended up eating here twice.

Ristorante Il Capriccio, an inconspicuous little restaurant in Poggio Murella, had one of the best meals I had in Italy, and hands-down the best homemade tiramisu. If you’re slow-travelling around southern Tuscany, this place is worth a stop!

My friends and I also grabbed pizza from Da Gigo e Licia in town, and I can’t believe how authentic it felt. It is run by a family, and is the most charming little place with delicious wood-fired pizza. It was so simple yet so flavourful.

Sovana: Etruscan Echoes

Tucked among the tufa cliffs and olive groves, Sovana was once an important Etruscan settlement and later a Roman municipium.

The cobbled main street leads you past golden stone buildings and vine-draped archways to the Cathedral of San Pietro, a Romanesque masterpiece with carved columns and a hauntingly peaceful crypt.

Outside Sovana, you can walk along a moss-covered path to the Etruscan necropolis and the famed Vie Cave, a deep, mysterious roadway carved by hand into volcanic rock. No one knows what these paths, found all over this region, were used for exactly, but they did connect various Etruscan settlements.

Sorano: The “Matera of Tuscany”

Sorano, often called the Matera of Tuscany, this ancient village has an almost secretive energy, with narrow passageways, shadowy archways, and stone staircases that twist between the buildings like a living labyrinth. Sorano was the only place we got a little lost, turned around by all the winding paths and dead ends.

Make your way to the Masso Leopoldino de Sorano, a huge terrace that was once the summit of the hill, to find panoramic views of the valley (at least on a clear day) and of the village rooftops, seeing the chimney smoke dance in the breeze.

The Orsini Fortress looms above Sorano, a medieval stronghold that is now a museum where you’ll find displays of all sorts of treasures found in this region. We ended up wandering around Sorano in the rain, which was perfect because it felt like we were the only ones there.

Pitigliano: The “Little Jerusalem”

I remember gasping when we rounded the bend and saw Pitigliano across the valley for the first time. Perched dramatically on a tufa ridge 313m above sea level, Pitigliano appears almost out of a fantasy novel. Once you step inside, you’ll find a vibrant town with history, culture, and a deep sense of identity.

Evidence of Etruscan settlements dot the landscape, with visible tombs and ruins throughout the area.

Known as La Piccola Gerusalemme (Little Jerusalem), Pitigliano has long had an active Jewish community. Today, you can visit the beautifully restored synagogue, wander the ancient Jewish quarter, and learn about the community’s legacy in the museum.

Make sure to also see the aqueduct of Pitigliano, the Cathedral of Santi Pietro e Paolo in Pitigliano, the Museum of Orsini Palace and Terrazza Panoramica that separates the old village from the new modern town.

Beyond the cultural places to explore, make sure to leave time to get lost in Pitigliano’s alleys. Ones that take you to the edge of the cliff and give panoramic views of the area. There’s even a pathway that leads partway around the cliffs.

For epic viewpoints, stop at Belvedere Pitigliano on Via San Michele and Punto Panoramico Pitigliano on Strada Regionale 74 Maremmana. There’s a little pull-off where you can park to see the stunning view.

Where to Stay in Southern Tuscany

There are two types of places I recommend staying at in Southern Tuscany.

The first would be an apartment or hotel within one of the small hilltop villages here. They are so quaint, and I would hate driving around the roads at night after dinner. Being able to walk back to your place after a delicious dinner is worth staying in town.

The other would be an agriturismo, or farm stay. These quaint places offer a more relaxing atmosphere, stunning views and farm-fresh meals, perfect for slow travel. I stayed at Agriturismo Poggio Monte Saturnia and loved how charming it was. I also loved the breakfasts in the morning, overlooking the valley around us.

Practical Tips for Visiting Southern Tuscany

The best time to go to Southern Italy, specifically Saturnia, Pitigliano and Montemerano, is the shoulder season. I went in mid-April. It was rainy while I was there, but it made the place a little more charming. Plus, we felt like we were the only ones in many of the towns. For a place as popular as Italy for tourism, having many of these places to ourselves felt so special.

However, being there before the tourism season starts did offer some challenges. It was hard to find a place to eat on a few of the days, and there weren’t that many grocery shops. But we made do and enjoyed our time in Southern Tuscany

You’ll definitely want to pack comfortable shoes, since you’ll be doing a lot of walking on slippery surfaces.

And, don’t forget your swimsuit so that you can enjoy the warm thermal waters of Saturnia.

A Timeless Corner of Southern Tuscany

This pocket of southern Tuscany feels timeless. Whether you’re soaking in the thermal waters of Saturnia at sunrise, wandering the flower-draped lanes of Montemerano, or standing at the edge of Pitigliano, the Grosseto/Maremmana region quietly works its way into your heart. It’s the kind of place that doesn’t rush but leaves an impression that lingers long after you’ve returned home.

If you’re dreaming of a slower pace, countryside views and villages that feel like they were made for wandering, southern Tuscany is waiting. It may not be the most famous corner of Italy, but maybe that’s exactly why it’s so special.